Tuesday's Quiz: Pantry Pests

Today's quiz asks you to test your knowledge of common pantry pests. These are stored product pests that infest dry goods in your pantry - including moths and weevils. See how much you know about these uninvited guests.

1. Grain moths often come in pre-packaged food from the store. What is the best way to find the source of infestation?

a. Put out traps.

b. Look in whole grain foods like rice and oatmeal.

c. Call a pest professional to check your cabinets.

d. Inspect all dry goods.

2. Cigarette beetles are a common stored product pest (see illustration above). In which stored products are they most commonly found?

a. sugar and flour

b. cornmeal and oatmeal

c. dog food and paprika

d. rice and coffee

3. Pantry moths develop from egg to adult in about

a. 3-5 days

b. 10-14 days

c. 16-20 days

d. 3-4 weeks

4. How do meal worms usually spend the winter?

a. in hibernation

b. as larvae

c. as pupae

d. under ground

5. It is rarely effective to use insecticides against pantry moths because

a. the larvae and pupae are not controlled with insecticide

b. the moths actually feed on insecticides

c. insecticides have little or no residual effect

d. moths can fly away from the poison

6. Indian meal moths are one of the most common of stored product pests. The "webbing" or silk mat that identifies their feeding area is left by

a. the adult moths

b. the larvae

c. the pupae

d. all of the above

7. Small, wormlike bugs in the pantry are usually

a. parasites that feed on moths

b. undeveloped beetles

c. larval moths

d. worker moths

Answers to today's quiz will be published in tomorrow's blog.

Quiz Answers: Wasps and Bees

Here are the answers to yesterdays quiz on wasps and bees. Both insects are most often beneficial to yards and the world - but care is required in each case to avoid painful stings. 

1. The true statement is (b) all yellowjackets are wasps. Yellowjacket wasps are a variety of  "social wasp" often found in southern California.

2. Paper wasps make their nests (d) under the eaves of houses - this is where we most often find paper wasps in the city. In more rural areas their nests may be seen under tree branches or vines - so give yourself credit if you chose (b) in trees.

3. Honey bees are attracted to (a) flowers. If you spot a buzzing insect flying around your picnic table it is probably a wasp.

4. Yellowjackets are attracted to (d) all of the above: soda cans, meat (giving them the common misnomer "meat bees") and other insects - an important part of their diet.

5. Only female bees and wasps can inflict stings because (a) the stinger is a modified egg-laying apparatus. Although it is true that male bees spend most of their time in the hive, and that females are more aggressive, the plain physiological fact is that the stinger is a gender-specific organ.

6. The insect pictured above is a (a) yellowjacket wasp. Note the distinctive markings, narrow waist, and absence of hair (see question 7). The pictured insect is in fact a German yellowjacket queen.

7. Although bees and wasps are often confused, they can be distinguished by the wasp's narrow waist, the bee's thickened hairs, and the distinct markings and coloration of each insect. While honey bees are mustard-colored and black, yellowjackets are usually a brighter yellow - hence the name.

8. Wasps are important to the balance of nature in several ways. They are used in agricultural pest control, as a natural predator for destructive bugs, and they are an important part of the food chain. However, they do not supply foot for other insects, and as far as we know they are not used in drug research. So the correct answer is (a) parasitic wasps are used in agricultural pest control.

We hope you've learned something useful about the flying insects that share space with you here in Southern California. The bottom line is that bees and wasps can inflict painful stings, and should not be allowed to nest on or near homes. They have important roles to play in the ecology, but can pose risks especially to children, pets and the elderly. The best way to eliminate a nest that becomes a threat to your home is to call a licensed professional.

Meat Wasp Attack

According to a recent article in the La Jolla Light, a small group of children were attacked by "meat wasps" while exploring La Jolla Summit canyon last week. Because the wasps were so aggressive and the children were stung multiple times, it was originally assumed they were attacked by Africanized Honey Bees. Two of the children were taken to Rady Children's and Scripps hospitals for treatment , where they identified the insects as meat wasps.

Apparently, the children stumbled on a hive just before dusk, disturbing the insects and causing them to aggressively defend their territory. Although one 6-year-old was stung more than 50 times, all the children were fine - fortunately, none were allergic to wasp stings. They were able to run to a neighbor's house, who then called paramedics and washed away remaining insects.

The story ends well, but raises a few questions for residents of San Diego County. First, what are "meat wasps"? How common are they? And how might the attack have been prevented? 

In the western United States, there are two distinct types of social wasps: yellowjackets and paper wasps. Of the two, paper wasps are much less defensive and rarely sting humans. Yellowjackets can be more troublesome. The term "yellowjacket" refers to a number of different species of wasps.  The western yellowjacket  (Vespula pensylvanica - pictured above) is a ground-nesting variety, sometimes called a "meat bee." This is most likely the insect from the La Jolla story. Unlike other local wasps whose nests usually die out by the end of summer, the western yellowjacket continues its life cycle well into late autumn. These pestiferous wasps are the ones we sometimes see at picnics or outdoor eateries, because they are scavengers. They usually nest in  hilly areas - often using abandoned rodent burrows for their hives. While they are considered a useful pest because they help naturally control other more destructive insects, yellowjackets will protect their nest if they feel threatened. This seems to be what happened in La Jolla. 

The children probably did nothing wrong, but their encounter should serve as a learning experience for others in the area. If your children are playing in a canyon or undeveloped area, be sure they are wearing long pants, long-sleeved shirts and proper footwear. Apply the same precautions to yourself if you are hiking off trail. Be aware of sights and sounds that may indicate hive activity and avoid exploration near possible nesting sites. Tomorrow's quiz will look at the differences between bees, wasps and hornets. Give the quiz a try to test your knowledge of these stinging bugs and learn how to avoid them.

UFI's

drain fly

fruit fly

Unidentified Flying Insects: Do you have little flying bugs bugging you? Often when we see a swarm of small flying insects in the house, we think swat first and ask questions later. But recognizing the type of tiny fly helps us eliminate the problem. Flying bugs in the house usually don't bite, but they can be a nuisance. This week we highlighted Pharaoh ants - a bug that can have wings and invade homes. Termites also swarm this time of year - looking like flying ants. These bugs require professional help. Here are a few other tiny invaders you might see around the house that don't necessitate a professional, and some hints on how to avoid or eliminate them.

First up: fruit flies. You may have seen them hovering over a bowl of fruit or a bunch of bananas on the kitchen counter. They are about an eighth of an inch long and have red eyes with tan bodies (see the illustration above). Although usually found around ripe fruit, they can reproduce in anything that has a moist film of decaying particles, like drains, garbage disposals, cleaning rags, mops, or garbage cans. As with all flying insects, the best way to eliminate them is to find the source of breeding and remove it. Put that fruit in the fridge - or if overripe, dispose of it in an outdoor bin. Launder mops and cleaning rags, and clean out garbage cans. If some adult flies persist, use a household spray or set up a homemade trap by placing a paper funnel (a rolled piece of notebook paper will do) in a jar baited with a few ounces of cider vinegar. This simple trap will clean up residual fruit flies in a kitchen.

Second UFI: fungus gnats. In appearance, they are very similar to fruit flies, and are often lumped into the same category. They are about the same size, slightly smaller, but are usually gray to black in color. You will most often find them around house plants. Often they fly up from the soil when watering. To control these pests, simply avoid over-watering house plants. Let them dry out between waterings, and clean any dishes under the pots. Do not let water stand in drain dish areas. Usually fungus gnat larvae live in the top layer of the soil. Let this dry out, and the problem is solved.

The third UFI is the drain fly. Larger than fruit flies or fungus gnats, these flying insects look almost like tiny black moths (see picture above). They are fuzzy and have larger wings than the other two bugs. You may find them hanging around the bathroom, perhaps on the shower wall or near the toilet area. Control of these pests is a bit more difficult. The most effective method is to clean the interior of drain pipes with a stiff brush, removing the slime they breed in. An over-the-counter drain cleaner will help, especially if used with very hot water. But these bugs are hard to drown, as they can trap air bubbles and live under water for a day or two.

With proper identification and application of control methods, all these pesky bugs can be controlled. Take a closer look, and rid your home of UFI's.

Moth Wars

In the classic Japanese horror flicks featuring Mothra, giant moths cause great destruction. To the right, you see Mothra in her larval form destroying the Tokyo Tower (Mothra, 1961). The film makers got it right in this shot. It is the larval state of pantry moths that causes all the damage. 

We have posted information about grain moths here before, but since they were recently featured in an online article - and because they are a year-round problem here in San Diego, we have decided to revisit the topic with additional information and tips on how to get rid of these troublesome pests.

The article posted on recordonline.com discusses the Indian meal moth. A similar pantry pest is the angoumois grain moth. Both these insects infest grain products, their larvae feeding on flour, rice, cornmeal, oatmeal, dried fruits, nuts, bird food and dried pet food, among other pantry items. If you have seen adult moths flying in the kitchen or pantry areas, control can be achieved with careful examination of stored foods - any dry goods you have in the pantry or cabinet areas. Check also bird seed, dry dog food, even fish food and stored spices. When moth larvae feed, they spin webs, leaving behind silken threads where they have travelled. Small particles of food often adhere loosely to the thread, causing the food to clump. Often the webbing left behind is obvious on the packaging. If this webbing is visible, throw out the entire package. The larvae can bore holes through cardboard and plastic packaging materials, so even foods that have not been opened should be examined. Any infested food and packaging should be disposed of in outdoor trash receptacles. If possible, store uninfected foods in airtight glass jars or in the refrigerator or freezer.

As you empty pantry shelves to examine food, remove all food container - even canned goods - and check for evidence of larvae on the bottoms of cans, inside drinking straws, and between stored  paper or plastic bags. Remove shelf paper. Clean shelves first with a vacuum cleaner and then with soap and water, or a disinfectant cleaner. Be sure you clean even cracks and corners, as small amounts of flour or meal may have accumulated there as well. A thorough scrubbing of the pantry area, and inspection of all dry goods will usually be sufficient to eradicate the problem. Pesticides are usually not necessary. If adult moths persist, a pheromone sticky trap can help relieve the problem before they lay more eggs. Getting to the source of the infestation is a major part of moth control. If left untreated, this pantry problem can become nearly as big and scary as the moths in the movies. Don't let this happen to you!

Bug Bite Prevention

A recent article in U.S. News and World Report lists recommendations from the U.S. National Library of Medicine on how to safely apply insect repellant. Protective clothing is always a good idea, especially when camping or enjoying the outdoors at dawn or dusk. But these tips on how to apply insect repellant may come in handy for the nature lovers among us.

1. Consider applying insect repellent to clothing to avoid skin irritation.

2. It doesn't take much! Use a minimum amount of repellant on exposed skin, avoiding contact with the eyes. Wash it off as soon as you come inside.

3. Although DEET is recommended by the Centers for Disease Control and prevention, the article cautions against using such a highly concentrated repellent on children and pregnant women.

4. Be careful to never ingest or inhale insect repellent.

5. Avoid putting a lot of repellent on young children's hands - the danger here is that they may inadvertently rub their eyes or put fingers in mouths.

6. Children under 2 years of age should not wear insect repellent for more than 24 hours.

For more information on bug-repellent clothing, see our previous blog entry here. Another article on avoiding mosquito bites can be found at Newsweek's online site. San Diego Country's Vector Control division has great information on mosquito facts and control here. Although summer is winding down, we have had some humid days and several cases of West Nile virus reported locally. For an update on reported cases of West Nile in San Diego County, click here. Taking reasonable precautions just seems sensible.

House Flies

Within the last week we've had several calls about large populations of flies in residential areas. Seems like a good time to revisit fly habits and control, with an eye to giving homeowners a few helpful hints.

The "house fly" or musca domestica is one of the most common of the thousands of species of flies. When more than the usual number of flies begin to invade a house, control requires some education and a little detective work. Adult flies are pretty easy to kill with over-the-counter bug sprays or an old fashioned swatter. But the problem will not abate until the source of the flies is discovered and removed. Flies can multiply rapidly because of their rapid development time and the large number of eggs produced - several batches of 100-150 per female. Eggs are laid in warm, moist areas, often associated with decaying organic matter such as manure, grass clippings, garbage, damp leaf litter, or decaying fruits or vegetables. They also appear in great numbers when an outdoor pest such as a rodent has died. Eggs hatch into larvae, or maggots. Fly larvae resist light, and typically burrow into the decaying matter from which they hatched. But in cases where flies are abundant and breeding is undisturbed, the maggots may be obvious. In the larval state, these pests are not even slowed down by the liquid chemicals applied for control of other household bugs. Therefore, control of flies is affected by control of the harborage site where flies are breeding. 

The first step in control when flies are invading a house is to check screens and weather stripping on doors and windows. Outdoors, clean up dog feces, rotting fruit, grass clippings, or any other decaying organic matter that may be attracting flies. Homeowners should check garbage cans, cleaning them to remove residual waste. In multiple-unit complexes where dumpsters are used, the dumpster company should be notified if there is fly activity, so a clean replacement can be provided. In both cases, garbage should be bagged before disposal, and cans should be in good repair, with tight-fitting lids. After all these preventive measures have been completed, the residual adult flies can be controlled with fly strips or bug sprays. Again, poor exclusion and/or sanitation are most often the cause of indoor fly problems. Save yourself some frustration by examining the area surrounding your home and eliminating the source of the infestation. For an effective method of killing random flies barehanded, click here. To read an article in Science Daily about how flies react to odors, click here.

Termites R NOT Us

It seems like a no-brainer: you think you may have termites, so you call your pest control company. But termite control is a separate industry, requiring different licenses, insurance and equipment. Many pest control companies do include termite divisions or subcontract their termite work. At Centurion, we do neither. So why are we blogging about termites? Because we often get questions from concerned homeowners and would like to help. 

There are at least 17 different varieties of termites in California. And in case you are wondering, as Noah is in the illustration above, why they are necessary - they make many positive contributions to the world's ecosystems. In fact, they are critical to the survival of the Sahara Desert, where they help reclaim soils damaged by heat and wind. But they don't help the ecosystem of your home if they decide to move in. So here are a few tips and places to go for more information.

Termites swarm in large numbers in warm months, especially early in the autumn here in San Diego. They look very much like flying ants. If you get close enough to examine them, you can distinguish a swarming termite from a flying ant by looking at some key elements. Flying ants have elbowed antennae, thin waists and wings with very few visible veins. Termites' antennae are straight, they have a thick waist and many small veins in their wings. If you see termites swarming near your house, you may want to call in a termite company to do an inspection.

Another sign of possible termite infestation is the appearance of termite droppings inside the house. Often the droppings are on window sills or by door posts. When you see a pile of material that looks like sawdust, clean it up, then find it again in the same place - call in a termite company to do an inspection. If it is addressed quickly localized treatment may be all that is necessary. To learn more about termites here in San Diego County, click here or here. For a referral to a local company we recommend, click here. As a note of interest, the US Department of Energy, in their search for sources of cleaner energy, have done research on using termites to replace fossil fuels through a process called metagenomics. Termites could be more valuable than any of us knew!

West Nile Warning

San Diegans love the outdoors. Our temperate weather, beautiful landscapes, and proximity to nature's best venues draw us out - especially at this time of year. But last week the Union-Tribune reported two more cases of West Nile Virus here in San Diego County, and a recent online article posted by the County warns about the arrival of this summer's most unwanted tourists, the mosquitoes that carry this disease. These warnings shouldn't drive us all indoors, but may give us the tools we need to protect ourselves and our families.

West Nile Virus is spread to humans through the bites of infected mosquitoes. Although it is potentially dangerous, only one in 150 people who are infected develop severe illness. Most at risk are the elderly and people with impaired immune systems. Eighty percent of people infected will show no symptoms at all. Symptoms can include fever, head and body aches, nausea, and swollen lymph glands. More serious indications include convulsions, disorientation, vision loss, and even coma. A local West Nile victim shared her experience here  in hopes of educating the public about the disease and its effects.

The County's West Nile Virus website gives information on the Vector Control Program's monthly larviside applications at area parks and open spaces where mosquitos are known to breed, as well as listing ways we can protect ourselves against the disease. The first thing homeowners can do, as touched on here in a previous post, is to inspect yard areas for mosquito breeding sources. Drain standing water in unused pools, buckets, flowerpots, bird baths, etc. You  might be surprised at the sources in your own backyard. Make sure windows and doors are properly screened, and that the screens are in good repair. If you have an ornamental pond, consider stocking it with Gambusia, or Mosquito Fish. The County advises we limit outdoor activities at dawn and dusk, when mosquitoes are most active, use insect repellant, and avoid sleeping outdoors unprotected when camping. Vector Control also encourages county residents to report dead birds. For more information on the Vector Control program, call (858)694-2888 or visit the California West Nile Virus Website.

Mystery Bug Week, Part V: Of Words and Worms

Fly larva
Moth larva

The mystery in this last Mystery Bug Week post is two-fold. The first mystery is more etymology than entomology. We find our customers would rather say they have "bugs" than "roaches," rather have "mice" than "rats," and rather have "worms" than "maggots." No one wants maggots. We can't blame them! In fact, what most people report as "worms" are some kind of larvae. Doesn't that sound better? 

The second mystery is how to tell what kind of larvae they are. In the larval state, most common flying bugs look remarkably similar. There are variations in size, of course, but it is nearly impossible to tell fly larvae (maggots) from moth larvae (see photos above). One simple way to solve the mystery is to take notice of any increase in populations of the adult bug. Have you seen flies or moths buzzing around the house or in the yard? Identifying the adults those worms will turn into is critical in controlling the problem. We have discussed pantry moths in a previous post. They are a stored product pest, so if you consistently see moths in the house the chances are good they are coming from the kitchen or pantry. Find the source, eliminate it, and the problem is solved. House flies are less localized. They could be coming from anywhere - so a bit of detective work is needed to solve the mystery of where they are breeding. Flies need moisture, and usually breed in some kind of decaying matter. Check grass clippings and mulch piles outdoors. Inside, check house plants to see that they are drying out between waterings. Indoors and out, follow your nose. If there is a dead rodent in the wall void or a potato behind the fridge, these would be great sources for breeding flies. Whatever you choose to call the larvae that invade  your home, they are a problem that can be solved with a bit of detective work.

"Killer Bees" - Part 2

The term "Killer Bees" is a media label, but it has stuck for good reason. In June of this year, a teenage boy was hospitalized and his dog killed in a severe attack of Africanized Honey Bees they encountered while hiking at a park in Chatsworth, California. The unlucky dog had disturbed a nest of Africanized bees. In an attempt to save his dog, the young man was stung at least 200 times as he carried the dog as far as he could before collapsing. Pets, children and the elderly are most at risk, as they are most likely to be caught by surprise and least able to move quickly in escape. How can you avoid these "killers"? Here are a few tips: 

1. Carefully examine the exterior of your house for holes or fissures, and fill them. We have found bees love to invade a house by entering through a hole left by an old cable line. Any gap larger than 1/8 inch can become a problem.

2. Take a look in the attic, especially in places where roof lines meet. Often the builder has left a small gap, just the right size for bees to enter and nest. Fill these holes with construction foam, or screen them with a fine mesh screen. 

3. Check your yard for possible habitats. Overturned and abandoned flower pots, old tires or boxes, an abandoned shed, etc. If you see bees going in and out of these areas, DO NOT TRY TO GET RID OF THEM YOURSELF! News reports are rife with people who have been injured by spraying Africanized bees with over-the-counter bug sprays. If there is no current infestation, get rid of items that might be attractive to nesting bees. Clean up piles of junk.

4. Install fine-mesh screen over tops of rain spouts, over attic vents, and water meter/utility boxes.

5. If you do encounter angry bees, take cover in a house or car. Even if the bees follow you in, get shelter to minimize injury. Cover your head with a shirt or jacket - Africanized bees target the eyes, ears, nose and mouth when attacking. If there is no shelter available, you may need to run half a mile to get away - keep running!

6. If stung, remove stingers by scraping them out with a flat object like a credit card or fingernail. Removing stingers with tweezers will likely release more venom. Wash sting area with soap and water and use an ice pack. Get medical attention if breathing is troubled.

7. When hiking or camping, listen and be on the alert. Do not reach into small spaces between rocks or under trees.

8. Don't keep pets tied or tethered.

9. Do  not kill an attacking bee. It will release an alarm scent bringing other bees from its colony.

These are a few simple things you can do to protect your environment. 

Be aware that swarms of bees, which look like large, football-shaped clusters hanging from trees or eaves are not nests. Bee swarms are scary looking, but will usually  move on in a few days. They should not be approached or treated unless they stay in the same place for more than three days - and then should only be treated by a professional. Swarms are not usually aggressive since they are not defending a hive. 

Africanized bees are a serious problem. Don't make them your problem! In San Diego County, for more information contact the Department of Agriculture at their toll-free Bee Information Line: 1-800-200-2337.

"Killer Bees" - Part 1

Most of us grew up with the sage advice to leave bees alone and they would leave us alone. Although mostly true then, since the arrival of Africanized Honey Bees (AHB or "Killer Bees") to Southern California in 1994 that advice needs an update. First, some history: Africanized bees originated, of course, in Africa. They were brought to the southern part of Brazil in the 1950's for research, where they inadvertently escaped and have slowly migrated and spread through parts of North and South America. For a current map of AHB colonized areas in California, click here. To see where they are in the United States, click here. More aggressive and territorial than European Honey Bees, AHB will attack if they feel their nest is threatened. But contrary to popular opinion, AHB are neither bigger nor more venomous than other bees, nor are they distinctive in appearance - in fact they look remarkably like their European cousins. The best way to recognize an Africanized colony is by their aggressive behavior. And then it may be too late! For this reason, nests in the wild here in Southern California should be assumed to be Africanized if not under the care of a beekeeper. What this means to the average homeowner is that extreme caution should be used. Africanized bees attack in larger numbers than domestic honey bees. Also, disturbed colonies may remain agitated for as long as 24 hours! They swarm frequently and nest in areas where  European bees usually don't - including small holes near the ground like water boxes, old tires or unused flower pots. If you see a swarm, steer clear and it may move on within a few days. However, if you see bees consistently going in and out of a small hole on the outside of your house it is best to call in a professional. Tomorrow's blog will address some preventive measures and more on California's infestation of "Killer Bees" (video worth seeing!)

Fly Bye

This helpful tip about the common house fly is not for the squeamish, nor for those with serious infestations. If you have a major fly problem, skip to the next paragraph. If you are squeamish, stop here! This tip is for dealing with random flies that dart through the front door, then circle the kitchen like sharks before landing on your clean kitchen counter - twiddling their legs and daring you to find the fly swatter in time. Approach the fly slowly, with hands about 8 inches apart directly above the resting fly, so that when you clap your hands the moment of impact is about 4 inches ABOVE the fly. Here is where the squeamish will still be looking for that fly swatter. 99% of the time, if you have managed to position your hands correctly without disturbing the fly, you will have a squished fly on your hands as soon as you clap! A little-known fact is that flies lift off vertical to the plane on which they are resting - think helicopter rather than airplane. If you clap above the resting fly, you will inevitably need to wash your hands.

Why not just let the fly live? Because you don't know where he's been! If yours is a typical fly, he may have dined last in manure, decaying matter, or any moist breeding ground for bacteria. He carries that with him, regurgitating saliva and depositing waste on that clean counter - or your bologna sandwich. By comparison, cockroaches are sanitary. If you have a serious fly infestation, here are a few tips for solving your problem. First, locate the source of the infestation. Do you have a trash can with grass clippings that has been sitting too long? A compost pile that is not properly covered or screened? A garbage can with a lid that does not fit properly? Most fly infestations can be relieved simply by drying out or removing the source. While insecticides may not kill maggots in a trash container, boiling water will. And if you find maggots indoors, again the source must be located and removed. Follow your nose, and you may find a rotting potato or a dead rodent that is harboring the flies.

Are You a Mosquito Magnet?

Do mosquitoes and fleas attack you while leaving other family members bite-free? Many have long thought blood-feeding insects show a preference to certain individuals, and now there is scientific evidence in support of that theory. According to a recent article in Newsweek Online, each person's body chemistry plays a part in either attracting these pesky bugs or leaving them cold.  Mosquitoes can detect a tasty target from nearly 100 feet away! So what can you do to make yourself less appealing to these unwelcome guests? The article states that scientists have not identified every body chemistry combination that mosquitoes prefer - but indicates they may have a preference for "artificially sweet-scented bodies." They also prefer darker fabrics. So stay away from cloying perfumes, black or blue clothing, and make sure your clothing isn't too tight. And to be really safe, use a Centers for Disease Control-approved repellent, such as DEET, Picaridin, Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus or IR3535. Since mosquitoes usually breed in standing water, check your property for spots that are over-irrigated, or containers that collect rain water - keep them empty and dry. If you have a pond in your landscaping, consider stocking it with  "mosquitofish" or Gambusia affinis, sometimes available through the County of San Diego Department of Environmental Health: 858-694-2888.